The garment industry in India: A paradox of progress and exploitation (Part 1 of 2)
On Paper: Worsening Conditions of Labour in India’s Garment Sector
By: Aastha Jain , member of Fashion Revolution India
The conditions of workers in producing nations like India reveal a stark contradiction: despite increasing international legislative protections, workers’ lived experiences continue to deteriorate. The acts of intensifying production and alienation of labour have left the workers isolated with stagnant minimum wages and growing monopolization of brands and suppliers. During my time as a policy researcher with the Fashion Transparency Index Working Group between September 2024 and December 2024, I discussed with the union leaders and researchers, the conditions of the garment workers on the shop floor, and the conditions of piece-rate home-based workers in India.
Rukmini VP, President of Garment Labour Union(GLU) highlights that amongst 72 sectors across industries in India, only 4 sectors namely Garment, Leather, Spinning, and Textile have the lowest wages; INR 8,000 ($95) – INR 12,000 ($143) per month (p/m). As per the national law, minimum wages have to be revised every 3-5 years, yet it has stagnated for over a decade in many states. Even if it gets revised its implementation is rare, often retaliated by the factory owners with court cases.
Labour requiring an average of 9 to 11 hours per day (which contradicts Indian Labour Law that limits to 48 hours a week), and paying less than $100 p/m, can increase up to 14 to 16 hours per day during peak seasons.“Workers are allowed a maximum of 30-minute break, and even this is contingent on meeting punishing production targets of 150-200 garment pieces per hour,” says Rukmini VP. Rampant harassment, caste-based discrimination, poor healthcare, and childcare facilities, are further deteriorating the physical, social, and mental conditions of a worker.
“Workers are allowed a maximum of 30-minute break, and even this is contingent on meeting punishing production targets of 150-200 garment pieces per hour,” says Rukmini VP.
The gendered nature of the workforce amplifies these economic challenges. A predominantly female workforce (around 90%) migrates across states to manufacturing districts, being first-generation industrial workers. These migrant workers face heightened risks of harassment, possess weak negotiation power, and experience job insecurity. Underage girls between 14 and 15 years enter factories using falsified age certificates.
In addition to this exploitation which leaves individual workers vulnerable, organising resistance is also made difficult. According to interviewed union representatives, In India, less than 4% of the working class in the garment industry are part of unions. Additionally, they state that the brands, and factories employ extreme forms of tactics to suppress workers from organizing, including targeting the workers, surveillance, economic intimidation, creating yellow trade unions, stopping purchase orders (stop sourcing from that vendor), terminating employment, and threatening organizers, amongst others.
Paradoxically, increasing compliance has created new forms of exploitation. The documentation process has become so complex that specialized firms now solely manage supplier paperwork. Small manufacturers unable to navigate this bureaucratic labyrinth are being systematically eliminated, establishing a monopoly on large manufacturers. The legitimacy of submitted documentation also remains highly non-reflective of the conditions. It remains unreliable due to sole commitment to paper as a tool for auditing. There are no third-party audits or unplanned visits to verify the information shared in the submitted documents. Factory visits are meticulously planned, with workers threatened to maintain silence. The auditors do not engage with the unions who could bear testimony to the true working conditions.
Brands have transferred their responsibility and accountability of ensuring decent working conditions to the suppliers without transferring actual ownership or profits: a sublime act of class manipulation. This paper trail becomes a shield, protecting brands from accountability while maintaining the illusion of ethical production. Workers remain trapped in a system where documentation matters more than real working conditions.
Paper emerges as an instrument of oppression, simultaneously serving as a survival mechanism for the oppressed. Entrenched in their accumulated wealth, the ruling class wields economic instruments, crafting an illusion of autonomy while sharpening the blades of systemic exploitation. Combating global capitalism’s inherent transnational nature, the struggle demands international solidarity. Amidst poor implementation of local state mechanisms, trade unions increasingly rely on global support to negotiate effectively. Their core demands remain fundamental: joint employer responsibility, living wages, union recognition, regular unannounced inspections, and dignified working conditions.
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The article is written by Aastha Jain, a visual designer and researcher. She is also a member of Fashion Revolution India. The insights are based on discussions with Rukmini VP, Garment Labour Union, Nandita Shivkumar, labour Rights Researcher, and Thivya Rakini, Tamil Nadu Textile Commons Unions. For contact, reach at: aasthajn29@gmail.com
